Method of sewing on garment-hooks



J. BLASI. METHOD FOR SEWING 0N GARMENT HOOKS.

APPLICATION FILED MAY .8. 1918.

Patented Jan. 6', 1920.

2 SHEETSSHEET l,

WITN ESSES ATTORNEY J/BLASIQ METHOD FOR SE W|NG 0N GARMENT HOOKS.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 8. l9l8.'

1, 5% 7 My. Q 2 5 3 m L w rrnn eras arnr on on.

JOSEPH BLASI, OF BROOKLYN, NEVI YORK, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGERMANUFACTURING COMPANY, A GORPORALION OF NEW JERSEY.

METHOD OF SEWING ON GARMENT-HOOKS.

Patented Jane, 1920.

Application filed May 8, 1918. Serial No. 233,307.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, J osnrrr BLASI, a citizen of the United States,residing at Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Sewing onGarment-Hooks, of which the following is a specification, referencebeing had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to hook-and-eye closures for garments or otherarticles made of fabric material and has for an object to provide animproved method of attaching garment-hooks to fabric material in whichthe necessity for hand-sewing operations has been eliminated and whichwill produce a closure having a neat and finished appearance in muchless time than is required to produce similar closures heretofore known.

In producing hook-and-eye closures for military coat collars forexample, it has heretofore been the practice to sew a pair of hooks tothe face of the neck-contacting ply at one end of the collar andsubsequently sew on a piece of tape by hand to cover or conceal theshanks of the hooks. In some cases the shanks of the hooks have beeninserted between the plies constituting the collar with the bills of thehooks overhanging the end of the inner ply. When this is done, however,it is necessary to close the end of the collar by a hand stitchingoperation for the reason that the inwardly directed hookbills interferewith the formation by a sewing machine of a line of stitches closing theend of the collar. The necessity for hand stitching in producingfinished closures of the class described greatly slows up production andadds to the cost of manufacture.

The present invention overcomes the necessity for hand sewing byutilizing unbent garment-hooks, that is, hook-blanks the bill-formingportions of which have not been bent into the usual position overhangingthe hook-shanks. In practising the invention in connection with theproduction of military coat-collars, the shank or eyed end of an unbentgarment-hook is first positioned between two superposed plies ofbody-fabric material at one end of the collar with the bill-forming endof the unbent hook projecting beyond the end of the inner orneckcontacting ply. In so positioning the unbent hook it may first bestitched to one of the plies on a sewing machine adapted to form a groupof tacking stitches; a machine of this type being disclosed for examplein the application of W. L. Barron & W. D. Michener, Serial No. 233,302filed herewith. The other ply of material going to make up the collarmay then be folded or placed over the hook-shank so that the latter willbe positioned between the outer and inner plies. The end of the collaris then presented to a sewing machine and a line of stitches preferablyof a straightaway character is formed closing and neatly finishing thecollar. After this operation the projecting or bill-forming portion ofthe hook is bent inwardly to final position overhanging the line ofmachine made stitches which closes the end of the collar. The usual eyecomplementary to the hook is secured between the plies at the oppositeend of the collar.

In the accompanying drawings, Figures 1 and 2 illustrate a steppreliminary to the positioning ment-hook between the superposed plies offabric constituting a military coat collar. Figs. 3 and 4 illustrate themanner of attaching the complementary eyes. Fig. 5 shows the collar withone of its plies secured to the coat body. Fig. 6 illustrates the stepof closing the end of the collar on an ordinary sewing machine. Fig. 7shows the hook end of the collar after the hooks have been bent to finalposition. Fig. 8 illustrates the line of machine made stitches whichcloses the end of the collar; the shank of an unbent garment-hook beingshown in section. Fig. finished collar; one corner of the outer plyhaving been ripped back to expose the shanks of the hooks. Fig 10illustrates the invention in utilizing spaced groups of tackingstitches.

hile the present method is of value in the manufacture of variousarticles of wearing apparel, &c., it is disclosed herein as applied tothe manufacture of military coatcollars, the ends of which are providedwith a hook-and-eye closure. In the manufacture of such a collar theedges of a neck-contacting ply of material 1 are folded about andstitched to a reinforcing strip 2 and an outer ply of material 3 issecured along one infolded edge 4: to an edge 5 of the reinforcedneck-contacting ply by a line of stitches 6.

of the shank of an unbent gar- 9 illustrates the At the ends of thecollar the ply 1 is folded inwardly at 7 and stitched to position aboutthe end of the stiffening strip.

One or more unbent garment-hooks 8 are then secured in position againstthe exposed face of the stiffening strip at one end of the collar by agroup or groups of fastening stitches 8; the bill-forming portion of thehook or hooks projecting beyond the end of the collar, as shown in Fig.2. This operation is preferably performed on a suitable machine adaptedfor the purpose, as for example, the machine disclosed in the saidBarron &. Michener application. The eyes 9 are similarly attached to theother end of the collar, except that the tip-ends of the eyes, projectlittle, if any, beyond the end of the collar. The marginal portion 10 ofthe ply 3 is next stitched at 11 to the upper edge 12 of the coat body Aand the collar is folded upwardly about the line of stitches 11 into theposition shown in Fig. 5. The collar is then presented to an ordinarysewing machine having the usual presser-foot 13 and stitch-formingmechanism including the reciprocating needle 14 which is adapted to formalong the dotted line 15 a series of keyed threadloop structures 16constitutmg a line of preferably straightaway lockstitches 16, thusclosing the end of the collar with a minimum loss of time. When thepoint 17 is reached the work is turned and the stitching continued alongthe dotted line 18 to secure the plies 1 and 3 together and to thecoatbody, as shown in Fig. 7.

In stitching along the line 15 it will be noted that there are nooverhanging hookbills to impede the passage of the work under theresser-foot or interfere with the correct formation of the stitches. Inpractice, it is desirable to stop the machine momentarily as each hookis'reached and by slight manual manipulation of the work to place astitch between the two parallel wires forming the shank of the unbenthook it.

After the ends of the collar have been closed and the stitchingcompleted, the projecting bills of the unbent-h0oks h are bent back intooverhanging relation with the stitches 16, as shown in Fig. 7, thusc0mpleting the collar.

It will be noted that since the hooks and eyes are attached to that faceof the fabric from which the needle emerges in its penetrative. thrust,those sides of the groups of tacking stitches at which the out threadends,

' .burred needle-holes, &c., appear, are positioned adjacent the shanksof the hooks and eyes and are concealed by the outer ply 3 of thecollar. Thus the groups 8 of fastening stitches present a neat andfinished appearance at the neck-contacting face of the collar.

It will be understood that in positioning the: shank of an unbentgarment-hook behook-bill or, in other tween the plies of fabric it isnot necessary that it be first stitched to one of said plies. Inaddition to serving as means for securing the plies l and 3 together atthe end of the collar, the stitches 16 serve as means for securing theshank of the garment-hook to body-fabric material at a point beneath thewords, within the throat of the hook, thereby preventing twisting orturning of the hook about the stitches 8 which secure thestitch-receiving eyes of the hook to the fabric. Those stitches of theline 16 which span or embrace the shank of the hook may obviously bereplaced by a group of superposed tacking stitches 16 as illustrated inFig. 10 or by a succession of stitches embracing the hook-shank in anyother suitable arrangement. The stitches 16, 16', or the like,-may bereadily formed about the shank of the hook either by machine or by handbefore the bill is bent to final position, whereas it is a difiicult andtime consuming operation to form such stitches within the throat of apreviously bent garment-hook on account of the interference of theoverhanging hook-bill to the placing and drawing up of the stitches.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, What I claim hereinis- 1. The method of attaching a garmenthook to body-fabri materialwhich consists, in positioning the shank of an unbent garment-hookbetween superposed plies of fabric So that the bill-forming portion ofthe hook projects beyond anedge of at least one of said plies,presenting said superposed plies of fabric to a sewing machine to form aline of machine made stitches joining said plies along said edge, andlastly bending the bill-forming portion of the hook about the edge ofone of said plies and into overhanging relation with said line ofstitches.

2. The method of attaching garmenthooks to fabric material Whichconsists; first, in placing the shank of an unbent garment-hook againstone face of a first ply of fabric material with the bill-forming portionof said hook projecting beyond an edge of said ply; second, in passingfastening stitches first through the material and then through the eyesof the hook, whereby the stitching will present a finished appearance atthe face of the first ply of material opposite that to which the hook isattached; third, in covering the shank of the hook by a second ply ofmaterial and stitching said plies together along the edge of the firstply beyond which the hook-bill projects; and fourth, in bending thebill-forming portion of the hook about said edge and into overhangingrelation with said first ply of material.

3. The'method of attaching hook and eye closures to military-coatcollars which consists, first, in sewing unbent hooks and C0111?plemental eyes, respectively, to the outer surface at the opposite endsof a reinforced neck-contacting ply of material having a form of acollar-blank, second, in securing an outer collar-blank ply to positionadjacent the outer face of the neck-contacting ply by straightawaystitching, and third, in bending the hook-bills inwardly to finalposition overhanging the inner face of the neck-contacting ply.

4. An article of wearing apparel comprising a plurality of superposedinner and outer plies of material, a garment-hook disposed hetween saidplies of material and having its sewing eyes secured to the inner plyand free from attachment to the outer ply, the bill of said hook beingdisposed in overhanging relation with the edge-portion of the inner ofsaid plies, and a line of stitches including a series of keyedthreadloop structures securing said plies together along saidedge-portions, said hook-bill overhanging said line of stitches.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

JOSEPH BLASI.

